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Tales of the Vine
Global wine discoveries by Cyrille Hanson, Wine Buyer
 
Blame it On Quality | Issue 11
July 2, 2008
   
   
 
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I gotta tell ya’…some days this job seems unreal with all of the exceptional productions showing up from heretofore unlikely places. Not only places, but vintages, too. It’s kind of like a game of “Catch the Gopher”…you just never know what hole the next great thing is going to pop out of! The fact is, every region that makes wine CAN make quality-driven wines. We sub-consciously tend to relegate certain regions to a “B”-tier (i.e., South Africa, New Zealand, etc.). We know that they make great wines, but somehow we have difficulty raising them to the same levels of, say, Burgundy or California. Well, today’s selections are here to point out the error of our ways. I’ve found some superb entries from around the world, jaw-droppingly impressive for their incredible quality and reasonable prices. Pay special attention to the Riojas, for these are wines you won’t see again.

Amisfield:


I was honored to have the opportunity to sit down with Amisfield winemaker Jeff Sinott at a recent event. Neal Martin of The Wine Advocate tagged him perfectly – “a wired ball of energy” – and all of this is channeled into making some of the best Pinots from New Zealand. Located in the rising star area of Central Otago, Amisfield is recognized for its world-class wines and their sustainable and minimal vineyard and winery management practices. The “Rocky Knoll Vineyard” (VF 94) bottling is considered the Grand cru of Amisfield, and this is not a misnomer. It shouts out with exceptional power and intensity, albeit a bit tightly wound at the moment. Only a small amount of this finds its way to the United States and we are fortunate to be one of the first to offer it. As well, I loved the Pinot Gris (VF 92) as it proved to be quite versatile with the food, pairing with everything from prawns to beets to roasted burnt lime-glazed chicken. Yum!

Barros
:

OK, you may think that port is a Fall consideration, but because of the small amounts of these 2, I felt it necessary to promote them now. The 2005 Barros (RH 94-96) is huge and burly and needs a good few years under its belt before it is truly ready to start drinking. But these are the last four 6-pks available to us, so time to get on with it and just let it rest peacefully in your cellar for a decade. The 20-year Tawny (VF 92), however, is delightful as it has acidity and fresh fig components that allow it to be consumed even in the summer. Just make certain you keep it cool and you’ll be enjoying that cigar or small plate of dried fruit and nuts with an exceptional value. It’s not often you find this quality at such a reasonable price.

Guardian
Peak:

Hurrah! Here’s another chance to taste great South African Cabernet (don’t laugh!) without straining the pocketbook. Owned by the renowned team of Jean Engelbrecht and Ernie Els, this is a relative newcomer to the block. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is of Stellenbosch origin and made in a more New World style. What’s especially nice is the smooth integration of the South African minerality that normally tends to overwhelm. Here it is seamlessly integrated and provides a backbone that supports the plush, ripe fruit.

Vina Valoria:


If you don’t jump on this now, you will be kicking yourself. When our rep mentioned that he had a couple of older vintages of Rioja we were intrigued, especially considering the vintages – 1968 (VF 94) and 1973 (VF 92). Suffice it to say, we were all blown away by how pristine, elegant, complex and indescribably delicious these Riojas are! Look, you can’t find a Burgundy at these prices that is going to keep you as entranced, and that is exactly (no joke) what these wines reminded me of – great Burgundy. We bought the last cases available in the United States, so once they are gone… These are perfect anniversary wines and also will open your eyes to how glorious mature Rioja is.

Quinta do Vallado:


And the discoveries keep on coming. One of the most misunderstood wines, I feel, is the still wine of Portugal. Recently, I’ve been fortunate to taste quite a few releases and am looking forward to introducing you to the gems I’ve run across. The first of these is this delicious “Reserva” Douro Red made from the following grapes: Tinto Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Sousao. The fleshiness and concentration of this wine is reminiscent of a fine Bordeaux and will go far in giving you an idea of the high quality that still wines from Portugal have to offer. It’s not just port anymore.

Repeat Contenders:


OK, it’s officially summer and, therefore, time to re-visit a few of the past TOTV options. The Pampelonne Rose (VF 92) continues to wow with its perfect acidity and fruity profile. The Ayala Brut Rose (VF 91) has just become a new favorite, as I have discovered an additive the makes for the perfect summer cocktail – add a few drops of the St. Germain elderberry liqueur and you have a twist on a kir that will impress all of your friends. Delicious! And then for those balmy BBQ nights, I have to say that the Riglos-Gran Corte (VF 91) is really coming into its own. All that meaty black fruit and spicy goodness is just aching for grilled fare.
Featured wine in this offer

2006 Amisfield - Pinot Gris Prearrival 750ml $21 VF 91

2006 Amisfield - Pinot Noir Rocky Knoll Prearrival 750ml $89 VF 94

NV Barros - Tawny Port 20 Year In Stock 750ml $59 VF 92

2005 Barros - Vintage Port In Stock 750ml $85 RH 94-96

2005 Guardian Peak - Cabernet Sauvignon Lapa In Stock 750ml $34 VF 93

1968 Valoria - Tinto Cosecha Prearrival 750ml $89 VF 94

1973 Valoria - Tinto Cosecha In Stock 750ml $79 VF 92

2005 Vallado - Reserva In Stock 750ml $59 WS 92

2007 Pampelonne - Rose In Stock 750ml $16 VF 92

NV Ayala - Brut Rose In Stock 750ml $45 VF 91

2005 Riglos - Gran Corte In Stock 750ml $49 VF 91
Order Now  or call 1-800-969-1961 
Reviews
2006 Amisfield - Pinot Gris
New Zealand - Otago
White Prearrival Prearrival
VF 91
 
$21   Add
750ml  

Full throttle Pinot Gris that combines aspects of French and Italian styles. The nose is structured and aromatic with prevalent leesy green papaya, beeswax and cherimoya. The mouth is medium-bodied with a prominent minerality and eccentric flavors of peach, lime, basil and hint of mango. AS you near the end of the glass it changes and offers more of a ruby grapefruit and quince/apple profile. Long finish, good acidity and broadness of palate. Drink: 2008-2010.

- Cyrille Hanson , Vinfolio, July 2008


2006 Amisfield - Pinot Noir Rocky Knoll
New Zealand - Otago
Red Prearrival Prearrival
VF 94
 
$89   Add
750ml  

This Pinot Noir will make you see stars! Right out of the blocks you realize how special this is. Pulsating nose of pure plum freshness bursting with undertones of blueberry and boysenberry but with an earthiness and brightness that maintains a more Burgundian demeanor. Amazing kaleidoscope of flavors - blue plum, fresh red and black cherry (close to the pit), licorice and coffee - that play hide-and-seek. The silken texture oozes across the palate but is gloriously lifted by the structured acidity that precludes it being an oaf. The minerality is of iron ore origin and plays up the pure, crystalline fruit so that its concentration is dispersed evenly through the mouth. Lurks and lingers with a smoky violet and cola/plum finish. Only 500 cases produced. Needs a couple of years to arrive at full potential. Drink: 2009-2017.

- Cyrille Hanson , Vinfolio, July 2008


NV Barros - Tawny Port 20 Year
Portugal - Douro
Red In stock In stock
VF 92
 
$59   Add
750ml  

A very captivating and tasty Tawny. Front-loaded with fig, orange peel and star anise. The palate offers up a dizzying array of fig tart, golden raisin, dried currants and a teasing hint of golden molasses. All this is perfectly complemented by an acidity that enables the port to nimbly dance across the palate onto a finish that is amazing in its length and freshness. The interminable finish sends out notes of fig newton, spice cake and an intriguing gravel minerality. Thoroughly delightful! Drink: 2008-2010.

- Cyrille Hanson , Vinfolio, July 2008


Barros - Vintage Port
2005 Barros - Vintage Port
Portugal - Douro
Red In stock In stock
RH 94-96
 
$85   Add
750ml  

Inky purple and opaque. I am a fan of Barros' Colheitas and they make scintillating Tawny styles of Port. I must admit, I have never been a fan of the Barros family's Vintage Port efforts ? until now. Tasted blind -- up against some big names from above, this was the standout of the flight. The concentration here provides for colossal palate presence which is quite approachable as although the plum and dark cherry fruit is in your face, the structure is subverted to it. Over several days this continued to improve, gaining complexity and showing its grace and delicious plum flavor. The tannins are a bit grainy but otherwise the chocoholic aftertaste is sublime with a textural pleasure which won me over. Possibly the biggest surprise of the entire vintage for me, my jaw literally dropped when I removed the bottle covering. I would definitely put this in the "must buy" category. Drink: 2009-2025.

- Roy Hersh , For The Love of Port Issue 27, November 2007


2005 Guardian Peak - Cabernet Sauvignon Lapa
South Africa
Red In stock In stock
VF 93
 
$34   Add
750ml  

Stunning bouquet of juicy plum, black cherry and cassis looped together with toasty oak, coffee and vanilla bean and a haunting licorice truffly aspect. Plush and velvety with a concentrated palate of plum, black cherry, licorice root and cedar that permeates and extends far into the back of the palate. The faintest trace of char and charcoal accentuate the black fruit character. Full-bodied with the requisite acidity to ameliorate the inky, chewy grip. Promises many a great thing with maturity. Only 280 cases produced. Drink: 2008-2016.

- Cyrille Hanson , Vinfolio, July 2008


1968 Valoria - Tinto Cosecha
Spain - Rioja
Red Prearrival Prearrival
VF 94
 
$89   Add
750ml  

The brightness of the nose belies this wine's 4 decades. Replete with dried fruit and spice (blood orange, cherries, clove and cedar) this wine's nose is almost a palate in itself. The mouth is silken and delicate with a very aligned, elegant structure, but not light. It has a medium-bodied entry of fresh plum/prune accentuated with a bright acidity and ethereal earthiness. Poised and statuesque defined with feathery brushstrokes of coffee, vanilla, mulling spice and cherry. Finishes with a velvety purity of fruit and spice; drinks like an aged Burgundy. Drink: 2008-2012.

- Cyrille Hanson , Vinfolio, July 2008


1973 Valoria - Tinto Cosecha
Spain - Rioja
Red In stock In stock
VF 92
 
$79   Add
750ml  

Enticing rustic aromatics that lean towards cranberry, pie cherry, black currant and forest floor/underbrush. This lively character leads to an entry that mimics the dark berry bramble character of the nose. Along with this blackberry/currant is a textured weave of leather, coffee, dried strawberries and cedar. Streamlined acidity that entwines seamlessly into a medium-bodied palate that finishes with a forest berry, groseille (red currant), white pepper and tobacco leaf tapering. Drink: 2008-2013.

- Cyrille Hanson , Vinfolio, July 2008


Vallado - Reserva
2005 Vallado - Reserva
Portugal - Douro
Red In stock In stock
WS 92
 
$59   Add
750ml  

Concentrated blackberry aromas and flavors dominate this very juicy, fresh-tasting red. Strong notes of dark chocolate and French roast fill the finish. 150 cases imported. Drink: 2008-2012.

- Kim Marcus , Wine Spectator, February 2008


Pampelonne - Rose
2007 Pampelonne - Rose
France - Provence
Rose In stock In stock
VF 92
 
$16   Add
750ml  

75% Cinsault & 25% Grenache. Oh the joys of rose?Delicate, silky, bursting at the seams with fresh watermelon, strawberry and cherry. Hint of rose floral granita tops off the aromas. Sparkling and clean with a pure weight. Like an icy white peach and grenadine Bellini with mouthwatering acidity and smooth, satiny finish. Load up on this one. Drink: 2009-2010.

- Cyrille Hanson , Vinfolio, May 2008


Ayala - Brut Rose
NV Ayala - Brut Rose
France - Champagne
Rose In stock In stock
VF 91
 
$45   Add
750ml  

A fresh perspective on rose. Clean, crisp floral and cherry/rhubarb notes in the nose with the mildest hint of strawberry. Defined and pointed ruby grapefruit and red cherry dance on the palate and breeze into a bone-dry, wipe-the-tablet-clean finish. Acts like a Rose Sauvage.

- Cyrille Hanson , Vinfolio, October 2007


Riglos - Gran Corte
2005 Riglos - Gran Corte
Argentina - Mendoza
Red In stock In stock
VF 91
 
$49   Add
750ml  

A serious blend of 55% Malbec and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. Very traditional, Old World nose (currently somewhat subdued) of earthy black cherry and forest fruits that is lightly accented with an exotic leather and tobacco fragrance. Slides into a mouth of black currant, bramble, blackberry and tea leaf. The overall effect is strengthened by the interminable threads of dark chocolate, white pepper and stone mineral that run throughout. A very elegant, statuesque finish that lingers with peppery fruit and creamy spice. Drink: 2008-2015.

- Cyrille Hanson , Vinfolio, February 2008


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