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It’s the time of the year when many wine drinkers revert to white wines and cut back on red wine until there is frost in the air again. Don’t get me wrong, I fully support the enjoyment of white wines. So often they get written off as not having enough complexity or depth, when in fact there are many interesting white wines from throughout the world that excel at being a great pairing with food or fantastic on their own.
Now back to those reds. I just finished reading an article on this very subject in the NY Times entitled “Reds on Ice?  It’s not Heresy” that reminded me of how red wine doesn’t always get its just due in winter or summer because of its serving temperature. The point of the article is that are many red wines that taste great chilled and are very refreshing in the summer months. It emphasizes that when chilling red wines, you’ll have greater enjoyment if they are lighter fruitier wines like Beaujolais and Italian Barbera, or a nice Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. I completely agree; however, it brings me back to a personal pet peeve that most red wine is served too warm throughout the year.
This reminds me of a talk I heard by Anthony Giglio, a wine writer from New York, at the Aspen Food and Wine Classic several years back. He was incensed at going to top restaurants and paying top dollar for wine and that was served too warm!

So he proceeded to visit the top restaurants in New York City, all with names that started with “The” or “La”, with his handy dandy thermometer in tow. Bottom line, each restaurant that served red wine above 68 degrees was included in his article on this very topic. To further exemplify this point and how red wine should be served, he did a wine demonstration at a large party where quite a few wine aficionados were in attendance. Basically, each person was given 3 red wines to sip and told to respond to what they liked. Most everyone liked #3 the best. What they didn’t know was that it

was the same wine in all 3 glasses. The 1st glass was at room temperature (72 degrees), the 2nd glass

was from a bottle that had been on ice for 5 minutes, and the wine in glass #3 had been on ice for 15 minutes. Needless to say, there were a few folks that felt tricked by thinking it was 3 different wines, but I’m sure no one will forgot it; I certainly haven’t.

Giglio also points out that, of course, you don’t ever want to serve any wine, white or red too cold because it will lose most of its aromatics. Don’t fall for the opposite: the typical temperature we drink red wine at, 72 degrees, is just too warm!

Some of the most affordable Syrah of excellent quality in the world comes from the finest producers of red Crozes-Hermitage in the Northern Rhone.  Yes, there are lesser Crozes but I am talking the likes of Graillot, Delas-Freres, Belle, Chapoutier, Jaboulet, and Colombier to name a few.  I pulled corks on two wines to show some friends “why” this past weekend and raised more than a few eyebrows. I watched the rest of these bottles walk out the door with a smiling request to work on more Rhone for them (I never seem to do as well on these “trades”).  Crozes-Hermitage sits on the eastern bank of the Rhone enveloping Hermitage.  As expected, Crozes is much the little brother to Hermitage but shows the classic medium to full body of Syrah with smoky, peppery, cassis, black cherry, plums, and the signature aroma of herbes de Provence.  Pair Crozes with fuller bodied meat dishes so that the wine doesn’t overpower your meal.  

2003 Delas Freres Crozes-Hermitage le Clos    $29
Opaque color, more fruit driven with gobs of black cherries, plum, earth, lavender and rosemary. Very good concentration and mid-palate with moderate structure.

2005 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage     $27
Opaque color, classic Graillot; this wine is bulletproof.  I double decanted (into the decanter and back into the bottle) the day before.  This is a very complete and powerful wine and it’s just a baby.  Smoke, leather, minerals, scrub, spice, jerky, and cassis. Very compact on the palate.  Needs time.

Click here for a link to Vinfolio's current selection of Crozes-Hermitage

It's amazing how certain wines continue to resonate many months after tasting them.  People, like wine, also leave an indelible mark on memory, and when an experience includes both memorable people and wine, it is all the more unforgettable. Such was the case when I visited Chiara Boschis, owner and winemaker of the Azienda Agricola E. PIRA & Figli estate in Piedmont, and tasted her 2003 and 2004 Barolo Cannubi.

Last October Chiara was kind enough to spend the day with me at the Borgogno and E. Pira estate.  I remember the excitement and passion in her voice as she spoke about her family's history, her personal story and approach to winemaking. Her fervor is clearly reflected in the quality of her 2003 and 2004 Barolo Cannubi wines. Bypassing traditional winemaking with which the Borgogno name is synonymous, Chiara is part of a group of young winemakers responsible for making Barolo internationally popular by employing modern winemaking, technology, and marketing. This group of modernists is often referred to as the "Barolo Boys." As Chiara is the only female participant, she is known as the "Barolo Girl."

Although recently there has been an increase in the number of female winemakers in Barolo, Chiara is still the "Barolo Girl" who single-handedly operates the E. Pira estate.  She oversees everything from vineyard management, winemaking, and bottling, to marketing. As glamorous as that may sound, being the owner/winemaker of your own estate, and the daughter of the Boschis family, is hard work. It requires dedication and sacrifice; there is little time for vacation during the growing season because every day is important. Chiara is there every moment, watching the vineyard out of her bedroom window, with barriques filling an area most would consider her living room. A petite woman, perhaps 5'4" at most, it is hard to picture her getting dirty and lugging barrels around, but she does it...happily, seriously, and with a great sense of humor, too. She jokingly referred to her climate-control system in her barrel ageing room as Obi-Wan "Cannubi." The device looked more like R2-D2, but still, the reference was funny.

If you meet Chiara Boschis in person, you will find that she not only funny, but also confident, charming, and ambitious. She is an amazing person who, like her wines, will leave a lasting impression. I highly recommend picking up any of Chiara's selections: Barolo Cannubi, Barolo Via Nuova, Barbera d'Alba, or Dolcetto d'Alba. You will not be disappointed. Featured below are two vintages of E. Pira Barolo Cannubi, of which annual production stands at a mere 650 cases.

The 2003 Barolo Cannubi E. Pira is an extraordinary wine for such a warm vintage. It is structured with a floral nose, has ripe, cherry and plum fruit complimented by sweet spice nuances, and firm tannins not found in many 2003s. This wine is quite accessible now, but will benefit from additional bottle ageing.

The 2004 Barolo Cannubi E. Pira, like the 2003, is superb. It has everything you would want in a great bottle of Barolo: musky aromas, rich layered fruit, and notes of mint and eucalyptus, among other spices. For the boldness and depth of this wine, it is balanced, elegant and filled with subtle nuances that reflect the terroir of the Cannubi vineyard.  The finish is long-lasting and suggests that the wine will surely improve with several years' ageing.

2003 Pira, Enrico e Figli - Barolo Cannubi (WA 90, WS 90,  IWC 87) $59.95        
 
2004 Pira, Enrico e Figli - Barolo Cannubi  (WA 95, IWC 87) $83 / 750 ml or $197 / 1.5L

Big news in the New Zealand wine world: Robert Parker, sailing blithely along on his usual route between Bordeaux and California this year, got blown off course and bumped into New Zealand!  Mr. Parker peered through his binoculars at this unexpected obstacle.  "Lo and behold, they make wine here!" he said to his crew, which included British wine writer and music freak, Neal Martin.  "Neal, go ashore and find out how many points it has!"  Neal, an obliging young man, disembarked, and spent two whole weeks exploring this new wine country in the company of the friendly natives, who plied him with many, many of their wines and watched his reactions anxiously, hoping he would give them many, many points.  Mr. Martin took copious notes, and is gradually posting them on www.erobertparker.com as he recovers from the rigors of exploration.  His introduction, entitled "New Zealand: More Than a 'Savalanche'", and the first of his tasting notes, are available for subscribers to Robert Parker.

On the whole, Mr. Martin did a very credible job covering a great deal of territory in so short a time.  His approach was critical in the best sense of that word – applying careful, unbiased judgment – and he assessed the wines within their context - that of a cool climate.  His visit was sponsored by New Zealand Winegrowers, who also do a very creditable job marketing New Zealand wine to the world.  Of course there are notable absences in his notes, names that are beloved and world famous within New Zealand, but his visit marks a starting point for us in the world of Parker, and for that we are grateful.

I will declare at this point that I am a New Zealander, so I am allowed to make generalizations that no one else can, at least not within my hearing.  New Zealanders suffer from sporadic bouts of "Small Country Syndrome."  Symptoms range from a sudden need for approval from others, to dismissal of the entire world beyond our borders.  It is not uncommon to hear it said in New Zealand that "We make the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world."  Much as I love New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, this is simply not true.  If Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough holds its own alongside Sauvignon Blancs from Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, Styria, and the Alto Adige, I am happy and proud.  I believe it does.  I also believe that our Chardonnays are an undiscovered treasure, at least undiscovered by America until Mr. Martin’s visit.  NZ Pinot Noirs offer a fascinating, fast-forward insight into how a region and a grape learn to bring the best out in each other.  I highly recommend Vinfolio’s small, well-chosen selection of NZ wines, particularly the 2006 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (91 points from Mr. Martin and 15 years of love from me for this winery, $47); and the two Chardonnays: the 2004 Kumeu River Chardonnay Mate's Vineyard (VF 92; WS 93; and 1 order from me – "Drink anything made by Michael Brajkovich, M.W.", $37) and the 2005 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay Waipara Valley (93 from Mr. Martin and at least 6 visits by me to this winery over the years, each time a pleasure, $26).

I’d really like to hear what you think as you discover these wines for yourself.

Last weekend the weather was great in Napa Valley. Inspired, I took the opportunity for leisurely bike ride during the extreme heat of the day, which was probably not the best idea, since temperatures were in the upper 90s. I thought to myself, “the grapes must be loving this heat,” and all the while I was trying to find a big shade tree to escape it. Peddling through the Valley, I was reminded that with all its incredible appellations and micro-climates, my favorites remain those in the mountains.
Mountain-grown fruit makes the best wines, period. I have a love and appreciation for all of them; their rich, berry-driven and age-worthy fruit commands the palate. The different mountain regions produce different wine styles, but I really can’t pick a favorite. From Howell Mountain (east of St. Helena), Mount Veeder District (west of Oakville), Spring Mountain District (west of St. Helena) and Diamond Mountain (west of Calistoga), they all are climate gems that produce memorable wines.
Getting back to my bike ride, with a welcoming breeze I was cruising through the Napa neighborhood streets, when I remembered that I needed to pick up my 6 bottles of the 2006 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Zinfandel which I had purchased back in late 2007 on pre-release. My lips were smacking in anticipation of having it that evening. The winery and vineyards are located on Howell Mountain, on the east side of the Napa Valley.
Robert Craig has all the ingredients for success: beautiful vineyards, mountain-grown fruit and a rising star winemaking team. The same can be said for many of the region's wineries, which showcase the great diversity of the Napa appellation.

If you haven’t already done so, bring Howell Mountain wines into your wine world. You won’t be disappointed with this beautiful mountain-grown fruit.

Browse Vinfolio's extensive inventory of wines from the Howell Mountain region here.

Some of my favorites from the region include:

1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 1.5L ($225)

1999 La Jota - Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain ($120)

2003 Cornerstone - Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain ($85) 

Southern Italy is taking center stage as a destination hot spot; overlooking the alluring waters of the Mediterranean, its rustic foods and great wine are inspiring enthusiasts to explore a previously unfamiliar region. While many can claim a knowledge of, or affinity for, great Nebbiolo from the Langhe or the Sangiovese-based wines of Tuscany, how many can claim familiarity with old-vine Aglianico from Campania or Nerello Mascalese from Mt. Etna?

Campania, Basilicata, Calabria, Puglia, Sicily and Sardegna are the geographic reference points for the vines of Southern Italy. Although international varietals like Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay have taken a foothold in these regions, native varietals reign supreme for many resurrected estates. As a result, almost extinct varietals are slowly making a comeback through aggressive propagation programs and the preservation of these native varietals is a common theme through the South.  

A new generation of winemakers and growers is investing in this once deprived area, where modern winemaking advances have been applied over the last twenty years. Before the late 1980s, it was common for the “older generation” to sell grapes in bulk to a local cooperative, but today, quality is stressed over quantity, with the common goal to coax the most out of the old-vine material and bottle the efforts under estate labels. Bulk production has been replaced by reduced yields and high quality.

From an American point of view, there has been no better time to sample the amazing array of products coming out of this area. Importers are putting forth a great effort to make sure the wonders of Southern Italy reach the States. The wide spectrum includes everything from the everyday value drinker to age-worthy old-vine reserve wines, often at a third of the cost of their Tuscan or Piedmont equivalents. Below you’ll find a breakdown of the regions and their top varietals, as well as four recommendations for exploring the best of Southern Italy.                  

Regions and Varietals

Campania (Capital- Naples)- Provinces: Avellino, Benevento, Caserta, Napoli & Salerno
Whites- Falanghina, Fiano & Greco
Reds- Aglianico & Piedirosso   

Apulia (Puglia) (Capital- Bari)- Provinces: Bari, Brindisi, Goggia, Lecce & Taranto
Whites- Malvasia, Moscato & Bombino Bianco
Reds- Primitivo, Negoamaro & Uva di Troia

Basilicata (Capital- Potenza)- Provinces: Matera & Potenza
Whites- Fiano, Malvasia & Bombino Bianco
Reds- Aglianico, Bombino Nero, Aleatico, & Malvasia Nera

Calabria (Capital- Catanzaro)- Provinces: Catanzaro, Cosenza, Reggio di Calabria
Whites- Greco Bianco
Reds- Gaglioppo & Greco Nero

Sardegna (Capital- Cagliari)- Provinces: Cagliari, Nuoro, Oristano & Sassari
Whites- Vermentino & Moscato
Reds- Monica, Carignano & Cannonau

Sicily (Capital- Palermo)- Provinces: Agrigento, Caltanissetta, Catania & Enna
Whites- Grillo, Grecanico, Carricante, Catarratto, Inzolia,  Zibibbo & Malvasia
Reds- Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Nerello Mascalese & Nerello Cappuccio

Recommended Wines

2005 Fucci, Elena - Aglianico del Vulture Titolo, Basilicata ($49) VF 94
The Titolo is 100% Aglianico grown on high-altitiude vineyards in the Vulture district of Basilicata. The vines struggle to survive in the pure volcanic lava soil, allowing for concentrated flavors in the bottle. The 2005 is aged 12 months in barrique and another six months in the bottle before release.

2005 Passopisciaro, Mt. Etna, Sicily ($32) WA 93
100% Nerello Mascalese, which was picked way into November, provides tremendous aromatics that harmonize with the layers of dried dark fruit. The wine is made by Andrea Frnchetti, who made his name with the Tenuta di Trinoro, a heralded estate in Tuscany.

1999 Contrade di Taurasi (Cantina Lonardo) - Taurasi Riserva, Campania ($65) VF 93
The benchmark for Aglianico in Campania hands-down is from the Taurasi zone.One of the most long-lived wines of Southern Italy! Taurasi merits the same attention as a collectable and ages as well as Barolo. The wine spends about three weeks on the skins and is aged for 18-24 months in large wood puncheons to emphasize the fruit and spice. Here’s a wine you can decant for a few hours and enjoy now or lay down for another 10-12 years.

2006 Donnafugata - Passito di Pantelleria Ben Rye, Sicily ($37 375ml) WA 90
The Ben Rye passito is a pure hedonistic wonder! 100% Zibibbo (Moscato d’Alessandria), grown on the volcanic island of Pantelleria off the southern coast of Sicily. The new release was honored with Gambero Rosso’s Tre Bicchieri of distinction. Arabs brought the grape over from the North African coast a few hundred years ago and only a few estates produce this unique passito. The vines are bush head-trained to withstand the high powered winds that whip across the island.

I am not afraid to say some of my favorite wines are rosé Champagnes! Historically, these wines first gained popularity in the early nineteenth century with the British and Russians. However, it was not until the 1980s that prestige rosé Champagne was produced in any quantity. Rosé Champagnes (Champagne rosé) are often more prized and costly than their golden counterparts. The higher price is due largely to the scarcity of it on the market and the difficulty to produce it. Rosés represent just 3-5% of all Champagne exports.

Part of the intrigue for me is the color, as the spectrum ranges from pale pink to deep coppery salmon. When young, rosés can have a reddish-blue tinge and turn almost orange to amber with 10-20 years of age. When I taste, I become absorbed by the variety of flavors and the subtlety of secondary notes that appear in my glass. Rosés are assumed to be sweet and fruity, but the majority are dry with delicate notes of spice (cinnamon, clove, ginger, pepper), berry (strawberry, raspberry), fruit (apple, pear, plum, orange, nectarine, apricot, peach), flowers (blossoms, elderflower, rose) nuts (walnut, hazelnut, almond), autolysis (toast, yeast), minerals (stony/steely, petrol) and ripeness (carmel, honey). 

Champagne Blends
Champagne is typically produced from three main grape varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Most Champagnes are blends of all three grapes, although Blanc de Blancs indicates the use of 100% Chardonnay and Blanc de Noirs indicates the use of 100% red grapes (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier or a blend of the two). The Blanc de Noirs (white from red) Champagnes are considered "white" despite their slightly pink-tinged color. True rosés always include at least some portion of red grapes (traditionally 8-20% Bouzy Rouge still wine) and in some cases are 100% Pinot Noir. Depending on the varietal blend, rosés are often more rich and full than their white counterparts. The pink color comes from the Pinot Noir skins since the juice itself is colorless.

Two production methods for rosés
1) Historical method (known as maceration or saignée method) – After crush, the base wine sits in contact with Pinot Noir skins to pick up color. With skin contact the wine may show more raspberry and strawberry aromas.
2) Most common and modern method – Still Pinot Noir wine is added into each Champagne bottle before the second fermentation (part of the liqueur de tirage). It may take longer for the wine to fully integrate because of the mix.

My all-time favorite rosé Champagnes and international rosé sparklers
Some of my favorites include NV Krug Rosé (used to toast at my wedding with my husband and bridesmaids), NV Gosset Grand Rosé, 1993 Pol Roger Rosé, 1997 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or Rosé (had subtle notes of orange and spice), NV Ruinart Rosé, 1997 Laurent-Perrier Brut Rose Grand Siecle Cuvée Alexandria (made for their daughter’s wedding; I thought it was an excellent pair with lobster salad). As I am a big fan of Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, I am eager to sample their vintage rosé selections (see Vinfolio wine list below).

Outside of Champagne, I have also found good value sparkling rosés including: NV Ferrari Rosé (Trentino-Alto, Italy), NV Janz Rosé (Tasmania), NV Louis Bouillot Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé ''Perle d'Aurore'' (Burgundy), NV Allimant Laugner Crémant d'Alsace Rosé (Alsace), and NV Roederer Estate Rosé (Anderson Valley, California).

A selection of Vinfolio’s current offerings:
NV Lafitte, Charles - Brut Rosé ($35)
2002 Lenoble, AR - Vintage Brut Rosé ($40)
NV Ayala - Brut Rosé ($45)
NV Billecart-Salmon - Brut Rosé ($74)
NV Egly-Ouriet - Brut Rosé ($74)
1985 Veuve Clicquot - Rare Vintage Rosé ($96)
1988 Heidsieck & Co Monopole - Vintage Diamant Rosé ($100)
2000 Taittinger - Comtes de Champagne Rosé ($178)
1990 Veuve Clicquot - La Grande Dame Rosé (1.5L / $525)
1995 Roederer, Louis - Cristal Rosé ($659)
1995 Moet & Chandon - Dom Perignon Rosé (1.5L / $887)

Click here to see Vinfolio’s entire range of rosé Champagne

The sign for Bohan-Dillon Road had the “O”s shot out, maybe the “A” too, from rifle blasts. This was a nice contrast to the “No Hunting” sign posted a few feet away. Why is it that the most lauded California Pinot vineyards require drives down twisted, pot-holed dirt roads when the grand crus of Burgundy are visible from the highway?

No matter, Bohan-Dillon leads to all the top-shelf Sonoma Coast vineyards – those of Marcassin, Flowers, Hirsch etc etc. These recognized producers have brought fame and fortune to the steep slopes of the true Sonoma Coast, and each one claims to be a pioneer in the region. Not many of these big names have been around longer than Daniel and Marion Schoenfeld, though, who have been making wine on their mountain property since 1977, albeit as home winemakers. Their winery, Wild Hog Vineyard, became official in 1990.

Wild Hog doesn’t have the name recognition of its superstar neighbors. It doesn’t command the high prices, either. Daniel Schoenfeld intentionally keeps prices affordable, making his wine accessible to the masses. It became obvious, after spending 3 hours popping corks on any and everything in his garage-like winery that he’s not in the business to be famous or make millions. In addition to his own small estate vineyards (Pinot planted in 1981, Zinfandel planted in 1982) he sources fruit from, well, whoever wants to sell him some. He experiments with unique varietals, too; while there I tasted very old vine Carignane from Dry Creek and Montepulciano just to name a couple. And he’s always looking for more, either because it keeps him from boredom or maybe because he can’t say no to a new challenge. The best part about tasting at Wild Hog was that every wine had a crazy story about the people and fruit involved and Daniel was more than willing to tell them.

It’s in these experiences, just spending time talking, tasting, and most importantly, listening, that the spirit of a true winemaker becomes obvious. Not to get overly philosophical, but Daniel’s enthusiasm, knowledge, and plain joy of winemaking was a clear reminder of the adventure that goes into producing each and every vintage. And these experiences are just a phone call, and a twisted, pot-holed dirt road, away.

The full range of some of Daniel’s more “prominent” neighbors, located on just the next ridgetops, currently in stock at Vinfolio:

Marcassin

Flowers

Hirsch

As the title reads, it’s about now when it comes to exploring the emerging pleasures of Portugese wine. What's new, oddly enough, comes from old world cultivars who are bringing new light to the uniqueness of the country’s rich viticultural history. Of course Portugal is well-known for its Ports from the Upper Douro, but explore the wonders of the dry table wines and you will discover real gems to make any adventurous enthusiast a believer.

While Spain boasts record wine success, officially tipping the scales as the largest EU growing nation, Portugal boasts the most vines planted per square hectare. Plainly put, grapes grow with abandon throughout all of Portugal! Today, now, marks Portugal's revival as a world-class dry table wine producer. Sure, you might have trouble pronouncing the names of certain native varietals, but get past that and a rewarding palate education awaits. Quality percolates from the everyday values to the reservas, which incorporate reduced-yield, old-vine material at levels comparable to the EU-approved appellations of France, Italy and Spain.

My own rallying cry for Portugal was sparked by the appearance of a unique Douro Tinto featured by my associate Cyrille Hanson in Tales of the Vine, Issue 9. The road less traveled is where I like to be when it comes to new discoveries. The noted wine is the 2003 Domingos Alves de Sousa’s Quinta da Gaivosa ($52, VF 94) from the Douro Valley. If you need comparables, think rock star, high-profile Spanish Priorat meets a meaty Syrah from the Northern Rhone. Domingos Alves de Sousa’s string of accolades is confirmed with this wine. It needs a slot in your cellar alongside other amazing reds and whites from the major Portuguese outposts including Vinho Verde, Dao, Bairrada, Ribatejo and Alentejo. Many of the reds are blends similar to the Quinta da Gaivosa. The finest Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinto Cao and Touriga Nacional are hand-harvested from vines with an average age of over 60 years. The wine benefits from a year in French barriques and another year in the bottle to mellow out the edges.

The light toast on the wine resembles a well-balanced Left Bank Bordeaux with a double identity of sweet tobacco notes commonly found in Port, but it ultimately displays a dry long finish. Dark black fruit of plum dances along hinter notes of chocolate and herbs. This is not an investment opportunity, but rather a banker for the full-bodied, teeth-staining red wine lover. Bring this to a dinner party and you’ll make friends real quick!

I recommend picking up a six-pack of this darling, as a start to further discovery of Portugal. Look for other other show-stopping dry wines from Portugal in the near future on our site. Now is the time to explore the country's several diverse regions, from southeast of Lisbon to the northern outposts along the Minho River bordering Spain.

A great online resource is the ViniPortugal website. Viniportugal is a trade association whose mission is to promote Portuguese wines. Learn more about great producers such as Dow's, Fonseca, Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman, and Quinta do Crasto. 

A few weeks ago my husband and I celebrated my birthday with a dinner at Cyrus in Healdsburg. As we had previously enjoyed the inventive cocktails and wines at the bar, we were anxious to try the full cuisine in the dining room. On our last visit bartender Scott Beattie had impressed us with a “Rubarbtini”, one of his many libations that use seasonal and locally-sourced fruits and herbs. Since it was early May, we wondered which seasonal dishes chef Douglas Keane would feature on the dinner menu. Below are our selections for a three-course meal:

Canapés and an Amuse Bouche
These nibbles stimulated the palate with contrasting elements of flavor, temperature, and texture.

NV Agrapart & Fils Brut “Terroirs” Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru                            

Similar to: NV Lancelot-Royer - Blanc de Blancs Cuvee des Chevaliers ($44)   

This crisp, lean sparkler was made from Chardonnay sourced from grand cru vineyards in Avize. Although I typically prefer blanc de blancs from le Mesnil, this champagne had a lovely balance of acidity and nutty creaminess that paired well with the canapés. 

First Course

Thai Marinated Lobster with Avocado, Mango and Hearts of Palm              

Roasted Beets with Mandarins and Pistachios

The citrus garnishes made the first course particularly refreshing, while the beet and nut combination gave a slightly earthier component.

2006 Paul Pernot Puligny Montrachet ($40)                                                      

This young Puligny showed notes of lemon, crisp acidity and subtle oak. This wine selection highlighted the bright flavors in the first course. 

Second Course

Crispy Poussin with Fava Beans and Morels, Thyme Jus                              

Lamb Loin with Black Rice, Haricot Verts, Capers and Raisins

I simply loved the crispy Poussin, a spring chicken, sourced from a farm in nearby Sonoma. It was extremely tender, dripping in its own juice and thyme, but cooked perfectly to give its skin a contrasting crunch. The lamb was a heartier dish that emanated earthy, meaty flavors which paired nicely with the spicy dark fruit character of the St Joseph wine pairing.

2004 J.L. Chave Saint-Joseph Offerus                                                           
Similar to: 2004 Saint Cosme - Saint Joseph ($32)

On the nose this classic Rhone Syrah displayed notes of olive, lavender, and grilled meats. It had a rich dark color with concentrated flavors of red and black fruits such as plum, red currant and blackberry.

Third Course

Artisanal and Farmhouse Cheeses with Breads, Fruits, and Accompaniments

Chocolate Malt Ice Cream, Butterfinger, Chocolate Almond Croquette

The desserts provided the final touches on the meal, from the creamy texture of triple cream cheese to the cooling sensations of chocolate malt.

Mignardises

The final dessert cart offered a selection of fruit candies, homemade marshmallows, and chocolates.

Our meal at Cyrus was extremely well-balanced and executed with keen attention to detail. I look forward to returning in another season to try new dishes from a different flavor perspective and explore more of the selections from their international wine list.